Thursday, February 28, 2008
MURVAL handbags: MURVAL handbags coming soon!
Gucci reigns as the world's most coveted luxury brand
A new global luxury brands survey conducted by The Nielsen Company reveals the world's most coveted luxury brands and finds that Gucci, the flagship brand of French luxury group PPR, is number one. One in five global consumers said they would choose to buy Gucci (over any other luxury brand) if money was no option, making the Italian fashion brand that was revived by Tom Ford in the 1990s the most coveted and aspirational luxury brand in the world today.
Chanel and Calvin Klein tied for second place in Nielsen’s 48-country online survey that was conducted in November 2007. In fourth place came Louis Vuitton, followed by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior and Versace. Two years ago in the same survey, Gucci shared top honours in the survey with Giorgio Armani, which has since slipped to fourth place in current global rankings.
“It’s an incredible achievement for Gucci to remain at the top of the most coveted league table for luxury brands,” said Patrick Dodd, president Europe, The Nielsen Company. “In the past two years, Gucci has managed to maintain and even increase its brand equity in a very competitive and fickle industry. They have achieved this by consistently embedding their core brand values in all their branded products, which range from perfume and sunglasses to accessories, jewellery, handbags and ready-to-wear fashion,” noted Dodd.
While on a global ranking Gucci dominated overall, regional luxury brand preferences prevailed, reflecting fashion and lifestyle differences across the globe. Among the world’s most aspirational brands - if money was no object - two in five Chinese consumers would choose Chanel and 38 % of Russians would choose Christian Dior. One in three Russian consumers also said they would spend their money at Versace and Prada. Two in five Hong Kongers and Filipinos would choose Louis Vuitton while Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein and Yves St Laurent are top picks for Latam consumers. 25% of Japanese consumers would buy Hermes if money was no object.
As a global region North America was the least interested in luxury brands, with 35% of consumers saying that they would “not buy any” luxury brands even if money was no object. Dutch consumers (43%) and Norwegians (37%) topped global rankings for not buying any luxury brands if money was no object. According to the Nielsen report, one in four global consumers said they currently buy designer brands. Currently, 31% of consumers in UAE and Hong Kong say they buy Gucci-branded products. The small nations of UAE and Hong Kong are the two most famous shopping meccas on earth and it’s no surprise that their shopaholic, image-conscious citizens are among the biggest fans of luxury goods today. Their geographical location also means they benefit directly from “shopping tourism” - Dubai attracts the wealthy shopping elite from neighboring Saudi Arabia and Hong Kong attracts the new wealth from China.
“Shopping is a way of life in these countries and luxury brands are an essential part of the population’s wardrobe, even if it comes in the form of a key chain,” said Dodd.
Consumers in Hong Kong are currently the most likely to buy Gucci, Burberry and Louis Vuitton more than any other country. UAE consumers topped global rankings for currently buying Christian Dior, Versace, YSL, Givenchy and Calvin Klein.
“The appeal of the luxury designer brand continues to grow - a luxury brand is simply something that consumers, especially those in emerging markets, are willing to pay a significant premium for”, said Dodd.
According to the Nielsen survey, 25 % of global consumers said designer brands are of significantly higher quality than standard products and 60 % said that people wear designer brands to project social status. While quality is certainly a key factor for buying luxury brands - it’s not enough. A luxury brand needs to sell its core brand values within its image; the “image” that is reflected in this design and lifestyle is what consumers are prepared to pay a premium to buy into. Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Diesel top rankings for designer brands currently bought by global consumers. These brands are the most accessible and affordable to first-time luxury brand consumers. From perfume to underwear and a basic t-shirt, these brands offer a “designer” cache at a fraction of the price.
These brands also understand “it’s important to embed the brand values in smaller items to initially attract the consumer,” said Dodd, “because when the consumer has more disposable income, they will upgrade within the same brand to more expensive items.”
Interestingly, 23% of global consumers said they would shun international luxury brands in favour of buying a “local designer” from their country. The survey also indicated strong support for luxury brand names from local consumers. Italians topped global rankings for buying their own brands such as Prada and Max Mara. According to the Nielsen survey, 35% of global consumers said they would buy a mobile phone if it was co-branded with a luxury brand - a sector that fashion giants such as Prada and Armani have already taken advantage of. One in three global consumers said they would buy a co-branded luxury designer laptop, and one in four said they would buy a “designer” flat screen TV. One in six global consumers even said they would like to buy designer branded MP3’s and kitchen appliances.
“There seems to be huge market potential for luxury brands to evade every corner of the home and office,” said Dodd.
Labels: authentic designer handbags, gucci handbags, luxury handbags and accessories
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Get a handle on designer bags
Your Guide to Women's Fashion.
They fit even on "fat" days, last more than one season, and spiff up plain-jane ensembles.
Even at $300 and up, high-end handbags are still one of the most accessible ways to enjoy designer goods without breaking the bank. Logomania may have eased off some in the past few seasons, but designer handbags still top many fashionista "must-buy" lists. Launched in June '00, is putting its money where the fashion shelf life is -- in handbags.
If a big-name bag is out of your reach, try these methods for buying it for less than full price:
Off-price e-tailers often have brands like Prada, Gucci and Fendi bags for much less than retail. Used and vintage accessories are traded at Piece Unique, a virtual consignment store -- it's not unusual to see Chanel, Hermes and other luxe brands here. Want something different? Go vintage with Gucci, Halston and others at Enokiworld.
For now, there are plenty of high-profile designer bags. Here's where to find them:
Labels: authentic designer handbags, authentic gucci, bottega veneta handbags, christian dior, designer fashion brands, designer handbags, designer purses, DOONEY BOURKE, kate spade, prada handbag
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Milan Fashion Week: Etro
Telegraph.co.uk
Hilary Alexander reports from Milan Fashion Week
Blanket and totem prints featured on snugly, wraparound coats, fitted jackets and sheepskins.
Waistcoats came in a woodsy leaf-print and paisley mixes in ruby, black, burgundy and purple, which were used for body-conscious spencer's and military-look jackets with full skirts.
The collection featured, in fact, some of the shortest skirts we have seen this season in Milan, in contrast to the over-the-knee lengths, which have been seen elsewhere in ra-ra, puffball, skating and bubble shapes.
But she compensated for the lack of coverage with fancy, thigh-high boots and with the occasional, tightly-wrapped, long sarong skirt in an eclectic tribal pattern or a rise-and-fall hemline, patterned with earth-tone stripes, generally worn with a shaggy Mongolian goat vest or a corset over a striped knit.
The finale scene, appropriate to the snowscape at the back of the catwalk came in all-white, with woolly fringed shawls, sheepskins, chunky-knit vests, long cardigans and wraparound cloak-coats teamed with distressed lace skirts.
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Sunday, February 24, 2008
ITALIAN FAMOUS FASHIONS
Italian famous fashion designer names such as Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Giorgio Armani conjure notions of glamour and prestige in the famous fashion community. Home to many of the world's most revered and prominent famous fashion houses, Italy has long led the development and revolution of haute couture. Well-known for defining trends and setting couture standards, the decadent creations of Italian fashion designers are most often the first to capture headlines in fashion trade publications and fashion week events worldwide.
Prized Italian famous fashion designer names such as Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Giorgio Armani conjure notions of glamour and prestige in the fashion community.
The fashions of Italy's most admired couture designer's reach far beyond the bustle of Rome and the sprawling countryside of Tuscany. In days past, royalty, celebrities and the wealthy were often the only select group able to afford such elegant fashion. But thanks to modernization in textile houses and ease of import, Italian famous fashion designers now adorn not just the rich and famous, but also the true fashion connoisseur.
Italian famous fashion houses are similar to major corporations and businesses. At the helm is a leader, inspiring and directing the vision of the business. Working for the leader are various employees with specifics talents and abilities making unique contributions to achieve the vision. This same working scenario exists in Italian famous fashion houses both past and present. A fashion house maybe named for its founder, or designated with a name or symbol special to the house founder. Although many of today's most well known Italian fashion designers began working in famous fashion houses, prolonged loyalty is not always constant. Most designers will move from house to house, fusing their creative ideas and designs into a new, yet evolving fashion world.
One of the world's most notable Italian famous fashion houses, the House of Versace, began with a simple yet pure love deep within its founder's heart. As a young man, Gianni Versace began his fashion career working with his mother. From pattern buyer to dressmaker to designer, Versace was a quick study in these and many other areas. It was only about six years from starting as a paid ready-to-wear designer in Milan that he designed and launched his very own collection in the same city, bearing his now famous fashion name. The House of Versace was born.
In early days, the modern fashion designs of Gianni and his team weren't quite enough to catapult the House of Versace to sudden worldwide fame. With the help of fashion photographers such as Richard Avedon, magazine and style-conscience celebrities like Elton John and Madonna, Versace and his network of designers began to more notably grace the world with haute couture. Versace made his mark on fashion by combining his passion for art and fashion alongside top supermodels on the world's runways. But it wasn't always with the help of seasoned publicists. Versace was the most active planner and participant in creating his lavish runway shows.
At what some consider the peak of his career, unexpected trouble found Versace and his design empire when was shot and killed outside of his Miami home in 1997. During his fashion and design career, Versace expanded the House and his talents to include worldwide boutiques, fragrances, costume tailor and author. The House of Versace was in turmoil until his sister, Donatella, took over as CEO. Unfortunately, her concepts and designs were received with considerably less excitement than those of her brother. While visions of taking the House of Versace public were at one time discussed, any plans were nixed when its founder met an untimely death.
For those thirsty to quench the world of fashion, it now takes more than a keen eye and fondness for all things beautiful to be adored by the famous fashion community. Italian famous fashion design schools now aggressively teach courses such as marketing and fashion management; skills not previously taught to Italy's fashion elite, but learned directly in the fashion houses. In today's competitive fashion world, you'll need considerably more than a design education to start and rule an Italian fashion empire equivalent to Versace, Prada or Armani.
Labels: armani, authentic gucci, authentic prada handbag
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Online Designer Outlets
Designer fashion needn't be expensive, that's a common mistake that people make. I found that internet has managed to change that rule and you can now find designer fashion for substantially lower prices than in the shops without moving from the comfort of your own home.
As for the fitting of the clothes, most website's zoom-in and out options and features are so advanced that you can get a very good look at the clothes before you buy them. The sizing charts and product information for most eshops are also very precise. Looking back on the history of the designer label can help us to understand why it has become so important today.
The first fashion designer was Charles Frederic Worth (1826-1895). Before him, designers were seen as craftsmen and craftswomen. Charles Frederic Worth was the first designer to sign his work with a label. Since then so many artists have followed in his footsteps and have managed to impose a style in clothing rather than just the creation of a necessity, which has become quite important in an era of growing individualism. These artists were Paul Poiret, then Jean Patou, Vionnet, Lanvin, Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Balenciaga and Christian Dior.
The idea of producing an image rather than just a garment grew even stronger after World War II however, where the old Haute Couture houses stopped dictating fashion in favour of different and new designers such as Coco Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Pierre Cardin, Gianfranco Ferre, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Christian Lacroix, Karl Lagerfeld, Ralph Lauren, Issey Miyake, Isaac Mizrahi, Yves Saint Laurent, Donatella Versace, Gianni Versace, Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto to name but a few.
Different categories have helped to define Modern Fashion Design. Most people make a difference between Haute Couture, which is custom made and meant exclusively for private customers, and Ready to Wear which is standard sized and meant for large productions. The category you will be able to explore here is 'Designer Ready to Wear', which is high quality clothing, possessing a unique cut, the intention of which is to set new trends and philosophies (also known as concept items).
Buying designer fashion is a little more than just buying clothes. When you do so, you are making an investment on many levels: economic (can sell later on eBay), artistic (the attention brought to detail on those garments is so precise that designer clothes are often perceived as pieces of art ) and personal (you are making a statement).
"Fashion is a kind of vitamin for style." Yves Saint Laurent
Make a change in your wardrobe by owning something cool and a little more valuable (at an affordable price) or just click and browse through the different styles and get some ideas. All the online shops listed below ship internationally and sell clothing and accessories at lower prices than in real shops.
Labels: authentic designer handbags, designer fashion brands, discount designer fashion
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
There is more than just Louis
The realm of handbags has many producers, some made in Italy or France and more recently several US companies have entered the fray. Three of the most prominent makers of handbags in the US are Botkier, Dooney & Bourke, and Kooba.
The Botkier label was launched in New York City by fashion photographer, Monica Botkier. Looking for a bag she could carry her equipment in and still look stylish among the crowd she photographed, Botkier began to design her own handbags. Her first bag, the Trigger, impressed her friends, co-workers, and clientele so much that she was inspired to try her hand in the competitive world of designer handbags. With a professional's eye for detail and artistry, Botkier launched her first collection in 2003. With that success, the label has grown and expanded to include such lines as Black Rose, Bryant, Cairo, and their most popular line, the Botkier Bianca bags.
The Dooney & Bourke label was launched in South Norwalk, Connecticut in 1975 by Peter Dooney and Frederic Bourke. Their first products were surcingle belts and braces, sometimes called suspenders, The belts and braces were released in many colors and patterns which made them an instant hit at department stores. In 1981, the Dooney & Bourke company expanded their product line with fine-leather handbags. Two years later, in 1983, Dooney & Bourke introduced All-Weather Leather (AWL), which was a 100% waterproof cowhide and this became the standard for all their leather purses. The waterproofing of a leather purse along with the minimal care that went with it, made Dooney & Bourke purses the most popular designer handbag produced in the United States.
Today, Dooney and Bourke handbags are available in more than twenty different lines of purses. The styles range from crocodile leather to canvas totes and cowhide leather bags with zebra patterns to their most popular line, the Dooney & Bourke Alto handbag, with its classic lines and styling.
The leading designer of modern-vintage handbags is Kooba. Started in 1998 by a mother and daughter team, Bonnie and Abbe Held, the Kooba label quickly became a popular accessory used by fashion houses in their runway modeling shows. The material and hardware use in Kooba bags is always high-quality, the handbag designs are stylish but not trendy, and Kooba handbags complement any outfit in a wardrobe.
With so many fine luxury handbags available, you needn't limit yourself to the maker you see advertising the most in your favorite fashion magazine or talked about in your favorite forum or chat group.
Labels: authentic designer handbags, kooba handbags
Sunday, February 17, 2008
They made luxury a need
The Financial Express
There is one thing that these people have proved beyond doubt — that it is not impossible to overdo luxury. They are the people who created brands that redefined luxury as they evolved. They moved the benchmark of aspirations and created a class far superior than the ‘elite’. The brands they created need little introduction, but not many really know much about the legends behind them. These are legends who made design a religion.
Did you know that Christian Dior studied to be a political scientist but went on to open a contemporary art gallery showcasing the works of de Chirico, Utrillo, Braque, Fernand Léger and the paintings of friends Max Jacob and Christian Bérard? That was 1928 and Dior was all of 23! It is a difficult task to speculate the role the 1929 stock market crash played in his life. The crash ruined the Dior family’s finances and led him to sketch for various Parisian couture houses. His design illustrations became a regular feature in Figaro. And soon after, in 1938, he was hired as a designer for the house of Robert Piguet. And as they say you cannot hide talent. Five years later, textile tycoon Marcel Boussac decided to finance Christian Dior’s couture house. 30 Avenue, Montaigne has been the House of Dior since. Dior’s first collection, shown on February 12, 1947 in chilly, post-war Paris, was a sensation. His small-waisted, full-skirted silhouette was a symbol of luxurious provocation that made headlines around the world. As did his fur creations and perfumes. Dior died at the age of 52, in 1957. By then the brand had cast its spell on women as stylish and diverse as Marlene Dietrich, Rita Hayworth, Ava Gardner, the Duchess of Windsor and Eva Peron. The spell continues to live though.
In and around the same time, 1921 to be precise, Guccio Gucci opened a leather goods company and a small luggage store in Florence. Years of experience in London’s Savoy Hotel had helped Gucci understand the taste of English nobility. Tuscan craftsmanship in leather coupled with his creativity soon made his equestrian-inspired collection of bags, trunks, gloves, shoes and belts a hit. But as fascism swept Italy in the 1940s, Gucci was faced with a shortage of standard materials. That was when he introduced the iconic “Bamboo Bag.” And when Jackie Kennedy carried the Gucci shoulder bag (known today as the ‘Jackie O’), the brand’s celebrity status was reaffirmed. In fact the classic moccasin with horsebit hardware has become part of the permanent collection at the Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Wondering when the legendary interlocking double ‘G’ logo came into being? That, interestingly, happened only in the 1960s.
Not far away, in Rome, a young couple opened a small handbag shop and a fur workshop. Their timing couldn’t have been better — the first war had ended and the second phase of industrialisation made the future promising for the Italian middle class. Edoardo and Adele Fendi had to just rely on one more thing to do the rest for them — the quality of their products. Soon, for the Roman bourgeoisie, a trip to “Fendi at the Plebiscito” became a date with a certain prestige. And there was no looking back. In 1946 the couple initiated their five daughters into the family business. The sisters, along with Karl Lagerfield, a rising designer, decided to bring a cultural revolution. Fur was regarded mainly as a status symbol till then — it had to be large, heavy and visible. They experimented with new tanning methods, dyes and varieties and treated it as fabric: cut, woven and inlayed. The “double F” was also born now. In 1969, Fendi added an industrial prêt-a-porter collection to the entirely hand-crafted production of its furs. Its range has far expanded since to include leather, foulards, ties, gloves, sunglasses, jeans, perfumes and home furnishings.
Lacoste is another case in point. Founded in 1933, the brand takes its name after Jean René Lacoste, the world-renowned tennis player and Sports enthusiast. The world’s top tennis player also invented the style of “casual elegance”. To obtain greater freedom of movement and more comfort during his matches, he created a lightweight, open-weave, short-sleeved white knit shirt with a ribbed collar. No prizes for guessing that it was indeed the celebrated Lacoste polo shirt! In 1933, “La Chemise Lacoste” was registered and the shirt that he designed for himself found assembly line. Interestingly, Rene Lacoste was nicknamed the crocodile as the result of a bet. Just before a decisive Davis Cup game in 1927, the Captain of the French team promised to give this young “musketeer” a crocodile skin suitcase if he won the match.
Prompted by the young player’s amazing tenacity on the court, the fans quickly picked up the nickname. So, when the time came to select an emblem for the Lacoste brand, the crocodile was the natural choice. And as the brand claims, they are the first to sport the logo on the outside of the garment — prominently displayed on the chest.
Lauren is a relatively younger brand to appear in this list. Ralph Lauren established the Polo label with its line of neckties in 1967. But Lauren defied convention with that single product. Instead of the narrow ones, he designed wide ties. “I’m not a fashion person. I’m anti-fashion. I don’t like to be part of that world. It’s too transient. I have never been influenced by it. I’m interested in longevity, timelessness, style — not fashion,” Lauren is known to have said. And in ‘78 came his first fragrance for men — Polo.
Most of these legends have rewritten rules. Like Gabrielle Chanel (she took on the nick name Coco after her 1905 performance of the song Qui Qu’ a vu a Coco dans le Trocadero) who used jersey, a fabric that had previously been used only for men’s underwear to make stunning dresses for women when fabric supplies ran low during the First World War. A perfectionist to the core, she is even known to lie on her back on the floor of her salon, checking that every hem was stitched precisely to her specifications.
Now that is what goes into the making of a legend...
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Labels: authentic designer handbags, chanel handbags
Friday, February 15, 2008
Designer Vs. Vendor: Battle Over Copyright Issue Hits Congress
By Kristi Ellis
WASHINGTON — The two sides of the fashion industry squared off in Congress on Thursday over the issue of whether fashion designs should be protected by copyright law. A bill that would put more teeth into copyright protection for fashion designs that is trumpeted by the Council of Fashion Designers of America has been stuck in committee because of industry infighting. On Thursday, the pro-and-con cases were presented before a House committee by Narciso Rodriguez and the owner of a California apparel firm, respectively.
The CFDA is trying to bridge the divide with the rest of the apparel industry and has held discussions with the American Apparel and Footwear Association for over a year, according to the designer and written testimony from Kevin Burke, the association's president and chief executive officer. The AAFA represents most of the industry's major brands and companies.
Rodriguez, who claimed knockoffs of his designs take away millions of dollars a year from his business, told lawmakers he is "hopeful" the two associations will reach an agreement within a month on the language of the bill regarding the scope and risk of litigation.
Rodriguez laid out a case to the House Judiciary Subcommittee on Courts, the Internet and Intellectual Property on behalf of the CFDA in support of the Design Piracy Prohibition Act, which has been introduced in both the House and Senate but has not moved out of committee. The subcommittee is expected to wait to see if the CFDA and the AAFA can reach a compromise on the acceptable language in the bill before voting whether to move the legislation.
The bill would amend current law to allow companies and designers to register their fashion designs for three years of copyright protection. Apparel, handbags, footwear, belts and eyeglass frames would be covered. The measure also would establish penalties for designers or companies knocking off designs. The fine would be $250,000, or $5 for each copied item, whichever was more.
"The more acclaimed America's fashion designs become, the more they're copied," said Rodriguez in his testimony, citing a U.S. Chamber of Commerce estimate of $12 billion in lost revenues due to counterfeiting and piracy in the fashion and apparel industry in 2006. Rodriguez said he designs and puts together a 250-piece collection in one year over the course of six to 12 months for the fall and spring runway shows, which cost an average of $800,000 to stage. The fabric for samples costs another $800,000, pattern and design development costs $1.5 million, travel for design and fabric development reaches $350,000 and marketing rings up another $2.5 million.
"There are so many aspects of a fashion business that make it risky in the best of circumstances and the pirates are only making it riskier," he said. The designer, whose firm sold a 50 percent stake to Liz Claiborne Inc. last year, told lawmakers about his passion and inspiration for design, singling out the dress he designed for Carolyn Bessette when she wed John F. Kennedy Jr. in 1996. Rodriguez later sold 40 of those dresses.
"The pirates sold 7 to 8 million copies," he said. "It was very personal. I've been pirated so much that my brand has been diffused." Young designers will not survive in the face of knockoffs that dilute the value of the original design, he told lawmakers, urging them to pass the bill. But the bill's opponents argue that inspiration will be stifled by such legal restrictions, leaving thousands of companies exposed to frivolous lawsuits that could drive them out of business.
Steve Maiman, co-owner of Stony Apparel Corp., a moderate women's and children's apparel manufacturer based in Los Angeles, carried the flag for those in the industry who oppose the bill. "Extending the copyright laws to the fashion industry is thoroughly a bad idea,' said Maiman. "The bill is misguided and unnecessary, for several reasons."
Maiman told lawmakers the fashion industry has thrived without "help or interference" from this type of copyright law. He argued that it is "impossible to determine the originality of a design because all designs are inspired by existing designs and trends." Maiman also said the bill would spark a steady stream of lawsuits and expose retailers to liability as well.
"We're in this business to make cute garments at a fair price for the average American, not to sit in depositions in copyright lawsuits, arguing with lawyers over who invented an original style...of a kid's top for $14.99 retail before it goes on sale," Maiman said in his testimony.
Labels: apprel, art and fashion, fashion, fashion industry
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Lanvin is a clothing company founded by Jeanne Lanvin.
Lanvin made such beautiful clothes for her daughter that they began to attract the attention of a number of wealthy people who requested copies for their own children. Soon, Lanvin was making dresses for their mothers, and some of the most famous names in Europe were included in the clientele of her new boutique on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris. 1909, Lavin joined the Syndicat de la Couture, which marked her formal status as a couturière.
From 1923, the Lanvin empire included a dye factory in Nanterre. 1920s, Lavin opened shops devoted to home decor, menswear, furs and lingerie, but her most significant expansion was the creation of Lanvin Parfums SA in 1924 and the introduction of her signature fragrance Arpège in 1927, inspired by the sound of her daughter's practising her scales on the piano.
One of the most influential designers of the 1920s and '30s, Jeanne Lanvin's skilful use of intricate trimmings, virtuoso embroideries and beaded decorations in clear, light, floral colors became a Lanvin trademark.
When Lanvin died in 1946, ownership of the firm was ceded to the designer's daughter, who shared management of the firm from 1942 with a cousin and then a fashion-industry expert. Because Marie-Blanche de Polignac was childless when she died in 1958, the ownership of the House of Lanvin went to a cousin, Yves Lanvin. (See Directors and Officiers Since Jeanne Lanvin below.)
The company has shuttled from here and there, beginning in March 1989 when Britain's Midland Bank bought a stake in the company from the family. The bank brought in Léon Bressler to revamp the firm's faded image. However, February 1990, Midland backed out and sold Lanvin to Orcofi, the French holding company led by the Vuitton family. From Orcofi, 50% of the House of Lanvin was acquired by L'Oréal in 1994, 66% in 1995 and 100% in 1996. Under L'Oréal's far-too-diverse umbrella, an array of CEOs who circulate within the French fashion industry directed the company.
August 2001, Lanvin , the oldest fashion house still in operation, was taken private again by investor group Harmonie S.A., headed by Mrs. Shaw-Lan Wang, a Taiwanese media magnate. And, October 2001, Alber Elbaz was appointed the Lanvin artistic director for all activities, including interiors, and he has conducted his responsibilities in a highly personal, hands-on manner. 2006, he introduced new packaging for the fashion house, featuring a forget-me-not flower color, Lanvin's favorite shade which she purportedly saw in a Fra Angelico fresco. (Suzy Menkes, 2005.)
Labels: lanvin, lanvin designer, lanvin handbags, lanvin paris
Happy Valentine's Day - Heart accessories for year round
Valentine's Day or not, who could resist this cream silk scarf from FERRAGAMO that features a floral and heart motif. You can forget about the candy and flowers, this scarf will show us that you really love us. Made in Italy from 100 per cent silk, this FERRAGAMO scarf measures approximately 26 inch square with hand rolled edges. Shop this FERRAGAMO scarf at 40% off now.
Though not the typical red or pink hearts you see on Valentine's Day this Brighton leather heart shaped wallet redefines the look of the heart design with rich chocolate brown leather and cream and black woven trim. The furthest thing from cheesy, this is how you get away with using heart shaped accessories every day of the year. BRIGHTON wallet measures approximately 4 W x 4 H. Shop this authentic BRIGHTON leather wallet at 19% off now.
You can't talk about Valentine's Day, or heart shaped accessories, without talking about jewelry and this LYNN LEATART Hammered Heart necklace is something we'd actually wear. Made legendary by one famous jeweler (think silver charm bracelet and 5th Avenue) heart shaped jewelry has been done before, but not like this. Known for contemporary designs, LYNN LEATART gives heart shaped an edge with this hammered heart necklace. Sterling Silver heart with abstract pieces of silver holding each half together. The heart hangs at an angle and is approximately 1.5 inches across. The heart hangs from a 38 inch black leather cord. Shop this LYNN LEATART heart necklace now.
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Labels: designer handbags, ferragamo designer accessories, heart shape accessories
Sunday, February 10, 2008
Fab Bag of the Day - Valentino Patent Histoire Handbag
Despite the abundance of designer handbags available these days, there are only a few labels that are considered true luxury and VALENTINO happens to be one of those. Always luxe and never willing to sacrifice craftsmanship for profit, Valentino handbags are works of art like the patent leather histoire bag. In photos this limited edition Valentino handbag might not seem like anything more special and other Valentino handbags, but upon closer inspection in person, the braided leather handles, gold toned hardware and shiny patent leather blow you away
50 fashion questions you should be asking right now
Stumped by spring's new clothes? Fashion expert Mimi Spencer has set up wonderstuff.co.uk, a website dedicated to answering those conundrums of style that can keep a girl awake at night. Here, she explains what to buy and what not to wear this season
It's a Crayola moment, so crawl out from that dark, comfortable place and get a load of brights. Fuchsia is the hottest colour to wear - it should feel like a stab in the eye - as seen at Burberry, Preen, Stella McCartney, Versace, Celine, Balmain, Giambattista Valli... are you still there? Well, you get the message. If heavy pink is not your bag, azure (aka ultra-blue) is a pretty close second, followed by canary yellow (best at Zac Posen, Ralph Lauren and Roksanda Ilincic - though you should scoop up the Miss Selfridge sheer yellow blouse, £30, or the French Connection banana- coloured dress, £130. Fast).
2. What shall we do with the drunken sailor?
Wait till he passes out and then nick his clothes. The nautical theme has bobbed up yet again. You'll have seen the sailor chic at Chanel, the anchors away at Sportmax, the yo-ho pirates at Jean Paul Gaultier. Stella McCartney even did dolphin prints, bless her eco-friendly socks. So, look out for wide-leg, button-front trousers (great at Urban Outfitters), stripes, brass buttons, naval-style jackets and maritime dresses (best at Gap). Or just head to Oasis for the striped jacket and white sailor pants.
3. What's the most ethical thing I can do this spring?
Three things: a) Take a load of old clothes into M&S and get a £5 voucher to spend on lovely new stuff. Marks & Spencer and Oxfam have joined forces to launch the Clothes Exchange, to get us to recycle our clothes. Customers making a donation of M&S clothes to Oxfam will receive a £5 voucher, valid for one month, to use with your next purchase (as long as it's £35 or more); b) Invest in TV presenter and all-round It Stick Alexa Chung's new skeleton jewellery collection for Made, the Kenyan fairtrade company, at made.uk.com; c) Say no to plastic bags. China is, so why not you?
4. Less or more?
Definitely more this season. And then a bit more. Gone are the days of a single, stark, chic dress being all you need to get through the day. This spring is all fiddle and faddle - overblown corsages, great regiments of cuffs marching up your forearm, important jewellery, complicated shoes. If you're debating whether to wear that Masai chest plate, we say, hell yeah.
5. How many shoulders do I need this season?
One! Have a look at the Roksanda Ilincic's yellow dress or a coral one-shoulder frock at Reiss, £159. Nice, eh? Or, if you want all of spring's key trends wrapped up into one tidy little package, buy the Oasis one-shoulder dip-dye floaty dress with corsage detail.
6. What kind of moment are we having?
Ah, good use of your fashion lexicon, my friend. Since you ask, it's a Biba and Ossie Clark moment. According to vogue.com, it's an 'early 70s, Art Nouveau-ish-tripping off into the kind of tendrilly doodles girls used to scrawl on their bedroom walls after studying their hippie-romantic rock album covers' kind of time, as seen at Prada. Rather neatly, the Ossie Clark label is relaunched this year by fashion tycoon Marc Worth, with ex-Donna Karan designer, Avsh Alom Gur.
We're also having a Studio 54 moment (again!) - which translates as a late 70s sleek redux. You'll need high waistlines, great tailoring, high heels, silky blouses and bouncy hair, as shown at Michael Kors, Versace and Fendi - and as echoed at River Island, Jaeger and Topshop. It owes a lot to YSL - you'd do well to grab yourself a tux or a tuxedo scarf with a flirtatious fringe. A safari jacket would be a huge plus. Commune with your inner Jerry Hall: invest in a chic white trouser suit, a DVF wrap dress, a Lurex sweater, headscarf and aviator shades. New Look's grey waistcoat and trouser suit is a good place to start.
7. What are the wrong trousers?
None of them - they are all good to go. Wide-legged are better, but only if you are willowy and lanky. Coming up on the inside track, and certain to be a hit by this time next week, are cropped and skinny pants, as seen at Prada, £270. So, you can go ultra-wide, or tapered at the ankle, you can even wear those drop-bottom harem pants, as seen at Armani and Givenchy... This, dear reader, is a season of opposites - though don't try wearing them at the same time.
8. Am I tailored and tight or loungey and loose?
Both. Tailoring is still pivotal this season, but you need to relax. Really.
9. What's the top jacket for spring?
Shove your swing jacket to the back of your wardrobe; that whole triangle shape has collapsed like a house of cards. What you need now - and I mean need, because this little belter works just as well with jeans as it does with dresses, shorts and miniskirts - is a down-sized boyfriend jacket. If you can afford it, bag a classic designer version from Stella McCartney or Yves St Laurent. River Island has nailed it on the high street.
10. Are sheer tights really in? (Groan)
Yes, but you can ignore fashion dictates. That's why it's all such fun.
11. What's the biggest 'stayer' of the season?
If you want to rely on what you've already got, rootle around in the nether world of your closet and surface with a trench coat. This is a permatrend, a wardrobe staple, and it has been knocking around for so long that you simply have to have one. If you want the updated version, get yours in electric blue from M&S Limited Edition, £69.
12. What's the top print for spring?
I'm always perplexed by our wish to wear exactly the same print as everyone else. I'd rather buck the trend, which is why I shan't be wearing any star prints this spring. I won't buy the YSL-style star-print blouse at New Look. I won't pop into Topshop for the black star-print dress which has already sold out several times over. I say: No to House of Fraser's Therapy star-print dress, £35; stop it to Kate Moss at her birthday party, wearing Chanel's starry chiffon affair; and absolutely no way to the River Island star top. You can though.
13. OK, heels: wedge? platform? flattie?
Remarkably, the platform heel remains the foundation for your feet this summer. This means you probably already own a pair. If you don't, stomp off to Gap for the £55 wooden-soled platforms designed by Pierre Hardy (he does Balenciaga's shoes too). If platforms don't appeal, the important factor for footwear this spring is a general mood of frivolity and nonsense. Your heels must be surreal. They're all curved and sculpted, inspired by the goings-on at Prada, Miu Miu and Marc Jacobs.
14. Do I really have to wear knee-high socks?
Nope. Next question.
15. So do I need to take out a second mortgage for shoes?
No, the high street has some mad styles that the fashion editors are already putting their names on. And you, too, should consider purchasing some seriously nutty shoes - try the leather, wood and metal platform at Faith, £70 - or the tan, beige and blue leather plattie sandal at Aldo, £70. If you want the toned-down version, pick up a pair of cone heels at Kurt Geiger or, our favourites, a brilliant pair of red and black patent cone heel courts, £60, from Topshop. If your shoes aren't remarked upon by strangers, you're missing the point.
16. What should I buy right now, today?
I'd get a silk corsage - one of those flower ensembles that sits smugly on your lapel. They'll be ubiquitous as soon as the Sex and the City movie hits the screens, so beat the crowds and get yours now. If you're looking for more ouch-hot style tips, watch Gossip Girls, the tale of three New York fashionisties. It starts on ITV2 next month.
17. Is tie-dye really hot?
Yes, but do please call it 'ombre', the fashion world's word to describe colour bleeding or dip-dyeing. It's set to be a huge trend for spring, having appeared on the catwalks at Luella, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Alberta Ferretti and Jonathan Saunders. Prada's also done it on handbags (those crazy dudes). What you don't want is the 'I've-been-to-Womad-and-it-rained' look, and don't, please, do it yourself in the bath. We're loving the dip-dye Minnie Mouse heels with bow-tie at Topshop, £75 and New Look's dip-dye maxi dress, £35. For something a bit more flash, go for Massimo Dutti's one-shoulder dress, £89.
18. I fear sheer is here
Yes, it's back - the most ludicrous fashion idea since the emperor got a new suit. Sheer was shown all over the shop at the collections - best at Alexander McQueen, Chloé, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Jil Sander (where there were fetching clouds of puffed net). The way to wear it is in fine, gauzy layers, trying your damnedest to keep your nipples under wraps. If you're in confident mood, you could always drop the layers and go for broke; you'll be needing a washboard stomach to achieve this look, mind. And a contract with Select models.
19. What, exactly, is a tea dress?
It's the dress you'll be wearing in a month or so, mark my words. The tea dress is one of those oddities of style - it has filtered into fashion speak without a specific nailed-down meaning. You can take it to be a chiffonny, floaty, printy sort of dress, cinched at the waist, with a run of little buttons up the back, and perhaps a puff of sleeve - the kind of dress you'd wear to picnic with teddy bears in the woods. Find your inner girl and take her out to tea. Look for delicate feminine patterns, tiny buttons and a knee-length hem. Wear it now with thick tights and a cashmere cardigan, then go barelegged when the sun finally emerges. Miss Selfridge and Topshop have the best selection on the high street, though New Look's chiffon rose dress may well be the one to bag, £28.
20. Where's my waist?
High. Sigh.
21. What's the top high-street buy?
I would rush straight out and buy the Marimekko prints at H&M when they arrive in store. This is a collaboration with the Finnish textile house which specialised in bold, graphic patterns in the 60s and 70s (Jackie O was a big fan). Now H&M has raided the archives to produce vintage-look tops and dresses, in store from April.
22. Which bag?
Ah, now you're talking. The terrier-like eyes of the fashion pack are currently trained on Loewe, where Stuart Vevers, late of Mulberry, is now ensconced. If you want to queue for an It Bag, it's still the Anya Hindmarch Lautner (go and have a swish around her new flagship stores on Sloane and Bond Streets). Or you could go for a vanity case, as seen at Louis Vuitton. On the budget tip, take a look at River Island's new bag collection. Let me tell you: You. Are. Going. To. Love... the PU woven trim bag, £39.99 (see www.riverisland.com).
23. The fashion ed's best buy??
Aldo's platform sandals, £70.
24. OK, but what about a truly bonkers bag?
You could go for the DIY Fendi Baguette, which comes with its own set of Pantone marker pens so you can decorate it yourself in an idle moment between ignoring your credit-card statements and worrying about your debt mountain (it's £615). The other key element to remember is that evening bags are generally finding themselves out in daylight; the clutch and the evening envelope are very much lunchtime options, despite their obvious handicap in the usefulness department. The most dishy right now are the Jimmy Choo Magazine clutch bags, designed by artist Richard Phillips. They're called Riot and Nuclear and cost £295. Personally, though, I'm jonesing for a Prada Illustration bag. Aren't you?
25. What, exactly, is a Glamazon?
Whoever she is, she's back. This season, it's not about the ingénue, or the hippie boho - no, the woman of the moment is unbelievably glamorous. She sweeps into a room, great clouds of chiffon and organza billowing in her wake. If you had to put your finger on it, your finger would land on Lanvin.
26. What label will make me look, like, totally cool?
Chloë Sevigny's new line for cult New York boutique Opening Ceremony, of course. Chloë, intuitive style guru and inventor of many a controversial red-carpet ensemble, claims the clothes are 'mix-and-match, day-to-night... something quirky, something different'. Her personal favourite? A pair of gingham trousers!
27. Should I truffle out a ruffle? Or are they just awful?
Oh do stop with your word games. Ruffles are the unlikely decorative choice this season, as seen at Christopher Kane, Burberry, Giles and Lanvin. So I suggest you prepare to flounce. Miss Selfridge has gone big on blouses (the cream ruffled raw-edged silk one is jolly nice, £40), but if you want to hit this one running, go for a flamenco ruffle dress. If you could have it all, it would be from Burberry, but I'd settle for a chiffon ruffle dress at Topshop, £65. Or the multi-ruffle tiered skirt, £45 at Warehouse.
28. I've heard the toga is back! True?
Well, silk jersey was draped in a Grecian manner at Preen, Aquascutum, Versace, and Gucci, where things got very I Claudius. The asymmetric, fluid draped mini dress at Hermès was, fittingly enough, divine.
29. Which label am I about to love?
You and the rest of the style world. It has to be Halston. The first catwalk show for this rebirthed label was last week - and you'll soon be able to watch Halston: The Movie. Think wow dresses and the kind of outfits that demand a Martini on a silver salver. Or sneak off to Topshop and buy up Richard Nicoll's designs. He's set to be the toast of this London Fashion Week.
30. If I buy one thing tomorrow, what should it be?
You need a print. Florals were all over the catwalks - few designers forgot to do them. Some of the best were at Stella McCartney and Balenciaga. Look for abstract prints (as at Sportmax, Gucci, Chloe, Fendi, Lacroix and the rejuvenated Aquascutum); illustrative prints (as at Miu Miu) - or the delightful faerie queen prints, hand-painted at Prada, Roberto Cavalli and Dries van Noten. The season is feminine to a fault, so get used to these romantic, painterly strokes. Get ready to waft.
31. How do I disguise a big bottom?
Have you thought about a false moustache and a pair of comedy spectacles?
32. Do I really need a new dress?
The short answer is yes. If you don't fancy the tea dress, the options are many. The most forgiving replacement for last summer's smock is the cocoon dress - at Aquascutum, Gap, and at Reiss. For ease, go for a knee-length jersey dress - it could be draped, it could be straight. Whack on a belt and a chunky necklace and you're done. If you have to pick The One, make it Christopher Kane's bodice-fronted, full-skirted dress at Topshop £85.
33. What about skirts then?
Aha. It's all about puff. You should float on a cloud of fabric, a bit like the models did at Dolce & Gabbana. Whatever you go for - frilled like Luella's, perhaps, or the Wonderland Red Queen at Giles - the idea is that your skirt is a statement piece. It's no time to hide it under the table; get out there and dance.
34. Can I get away with a miniskirt?
If you have to ask, you already know the answer. Trousers can be very nice.
35. Which designers make clothes for the larger figure?
Ooh, there was someone. Hang on, let me think. Erm. What was his name? No, it's gone. Can I get back to you on this one? In the meantime, I suggest you put down that packet of chocolate HobNobs.
36. What's the best news about spring fashion?
It has to be the secret return of the boot-cut jean. You know you loved them. You know they loved you. Well, here's the scoop: 18th Amendment boot-cuts are the jeans to snaffle up - £165 at www.brownsfashion.com. The waistband is high, which is what marks them out from their long-gone hipster cousins.
37. What does tribal/folkloric/global mean? Are they just a bunch of words?
Yes. It's really all the bits and bobs that fashion editors didn't know what to do with when they got to the end of editing their catwalk reports. New Look has even made a dress out of all the off-cuts - see its 'folk' dress with pailettes and fringed hem, £38.
38. Which addiction should I see to this season?
Ditch the lip balm. It is a pernicious and addictive vice. Help yourself at www.lipbalmanonymous.com; says the site 'our primary purpose is to stay free from lip balm and to help others achieve the same freedom'. Mwah mwah to that.
39. What is 'It' Jewellery?
Anything you can spot from the doorway, when it's seated at the back of the room. It matters little what 'It' is - pearls, beads, crystal, chains, jet, jade, the lot - just make it big, bold and beautiful. Go for cuff on cuff (as seen at Marni and Pucci), stacks of bangles, a host of brooches. And if you're lost for inspiration, go chav and wear pikey gold hoop earrings like Amy Winehouse.
40. Where should my belt be?
In the middle, cinched tight, in the manner of, erm, Amy Winehouse. From there, your skirt can swirl or slink; you choose.
41. Leopard print - vulgar, no?
Maybe, but it's biggish news this season, so you must find a way to wear it. Generally speaking, tarty 'n' trashy fabrics work best when fashioned into prissy pieces. This is how they are rendered chic. See PPQ's knee-length A-line leopard-print skirts for further details.
42. Nails: blue, right?
Yes. Chanel's Blue Satin is already sold out and going large on eBay.
43. Will I wear a jumpsuit?
Nope.
44.Handbag: massive tote or little clutch?
Actually, it's the massive clutch - as seen at Chloé and Fendi. For a smaller, cheaper but equally woo-hoo alternative, go to River Island for the metallic or fake-snake clutch, £24.99. While you're there, pick up the multi-coloured 'ghetto' snakeskin tote with zips... and the, um, tie-dye leather clutch...
45. What do I wear with my pretty floral tea dress? Clumpy platforms and a waistcoat (the white one at Wallis, £35, is fab).
46. How big should my bangles be?
Huge. Enormous. Giant.
47.Which beach sandal?
The gladiator hangs in there. Weird, eh?
48. What should I dump?
Trilbies, polka-dots, power-dressing, sequins, swing coats, those ridiculous shiny leggings (what were you thinking?), body con, big shoulders, little black dresses (they need to be bright, you divot), slogan T-shirts, little leather jackets... did I miss anything?
49. Can I wear my old maternity frocks again this summer?
Shame on you. Last year's smocks should be binned or burned.
50. Who's going to rock London Fashion Week?
Expect great things at Biba today, a good follow-up to last season's cracking collection at Jaeger (also today), a whole heap o' goodness at House of Holland, something special from Gareth Pugh and Giles. Oh, there's just a real ton of talent. There'll be wicked things at Aquascutum, and Marios Schwab is now established as a leading light in the London calendar. Luella's showing in London again - and keep your focus on Richard Nicoll. Buy, buy!
PS Has Kate Moss hit the mutton button yet?
P**s off and pour me another Old Jamaica Light Ginger Beer cocktail.
___________
Labels: authentic designer handbags, chanel discount handbags, discount designer fashion
Saturday, February 9, 2008
Donna's Constellation of Stars
NEW YORK — Donna Karan has tried her hand at handbags more times than most care to remember. So, for her newest go, she looked to the stars for inspiration.
Her latest collection of handbags loosely takes its cues from the Zodiac system, and in the first pre-fall season, the groups are named Leo, Virgo, Pisces, Scorpio, Aries and Libra. Each embodies qualities associated with the sign: Virgo's bags are solid and grounded, Leo's are full of confidence and extravagance and Scorpio's have a sense of self and fearlessness.
"It makes sense — I live by astrology," she said in an exclusive preview of the collection on Wednesday. "I am a Libra. I can't make up my mind. We never find a balance. We like it all."
In typical Karan style, the handbags are all about the touch, from supple leathers and exotic skins such as French bull, ostrich and glazed goat to sculptural gold meditation rocks dangling from each style — "you could sit there and hold it," Karan joked — and other hardware such as sculptural intertwined zipper pulls company executives refer to as "The Kiss." Other details include asymmetrical seams, tucks, pleats and contrast hand-stitches on shapes such as functional totes, satchels, saddle bags and casual hobos. "I love the solidness of the zippers, the hardware, the sensuality of it all," she said. "All the skins make me feel like I am in the leather tanneries myself."
Picking up a Virgo handbag, she said, "I need a Virgo around me. Libras always need Virgos. My husband [the late Stephan Weiss] was a Virgo." Karan herself admits she has been sporting the same bag for many years. "The challenge was, would I wear this bag? These I would," she said and, pointing to a large shopper, added, "You know I will be carrying this for the rest of my life." This time around, Karan is braced for the fact that her extensive handbag collection is totally separate from ready-to-wear. "Hemlines go up and down faster, silhouettes go in and out," the designer said. "And the success of bags is that women don't have to go into a dressing room to try them on. You can try on a pair of shoes and not get undressed."
The launch seems a little like a case of "If at first you don't succeed, try, try again," but Donna Karan International executives are confident that they will get it right this time. Karan is, after all, owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, where luxury goods like handbags are a field of expertise. The conglomerate is said to be very keen on making the Seventh Avenue fashion house a bona fide accessories brand, as well — and putting up the financial wherewithal to make it work.
"We feel very good about the progress being made by the Donna Karan business," said LVMH Group managing director Antonio Belloni. "It has taken a while, but the different pieces of our strategy are now coming together under the leadership of Mark Weber. At Donna Karan Collection, we are executing much better in the core rtw business, and the customer response is excellent. From this base of strength, we are launching an ambitious accessory line. Donna has always been about functionality and style, and LVMH has great experience in leather goods, so it will be a powerful combination."
When Weber joined DKI as chairman and chief executive officer, as well as ceo of LVMH Inc. (U.S.) in 2006, he said the brand was bigger than the business, and his main mandate was to correct that notion. To strengthen the Collection business, he and his team of executives, including Collection president Carole Kerner, have implemented several new initiatives and built upon existing ones, including the Gold and Icons collections, offering a widened spectrum of price points, rounding out the assortments with more sportswear and beefing up the pre-seasons.
Weber explained that, where once the Collection offered pieces suitable for the top stores in cities like New York and Los Angeles, there are now also items that can work in branch stores, where customers still aspire to own Donna Karan pieces but would not necessarily go for the more cutting-edge designs. The company is also working more closely with licensees for a more unified vision across all categories.
The fruits of their efforts seem to already be showing. According to DKI, the Donna Karan Collection wholesale apparel business has increased by 25 percent over the past year. In addition, DKI had double-digit comp-store sales last year in its freestanding Collection stores. DKI has 11 freestanding Collection stores worldwide, of which four are company-owned, and the rest are licensed.
Ron Frasch, president and chief merchandising officer of Saks Fifth Avenue, said he is very "encouraged" by Saks' recent Donna Karan business, with a solid spring and fall and "outstanding" resort season. "They got through some tough times and they're clearly emerging out of a tough period with a return to all the design integrity that Donna built the foundation of her business on," he said.
Frasch added that Saks is in the process of building Karan's business again. "We just opened a new boutique in our Beverly Hills store and are creating a new space in New York that is still in development, and we're looking at additional doors," he said. Frasch saw some of the handbags earlier in the week and was "very pleased" with the results. "They put together a terrific team and, along with the creative team, have listened to their customers, with hardware, materials and color and a sophistication." Averyl Oates, buying director of Harvey Nichols in London, echoed the sentiments. "Our Collection business in the U.K. is extremely buoyant, particularly in London, where we have experienced a 45 percent uplift in sales in 2007 versus 2006," she said, adding that, from a sales point of view, collections like Gold and Icons have been highlights. "Our commitment to Donna has certainly increased over the past year to 18 months with more purchases in these core businesses such as Gold and Icons."
Weber said that part of the uptick in Collection has been based on having shifted the company's reliance from just runway pieces to other lines. "The mix of what goes down the runway and some of the new launches [i.e., Gold and Icons] has changed the tenor of our business dramatically, and we are appealing to a woman for a broader base of her choices and her needs," Weber said. "A significant portion of our go-forward strategy in 2008 is in products that did not exist in 2007."
Enter accessories. For Weber, making the category a commercial hit is a top priority, and a success is sure to determine his performance rating within LVMH. "LVMH understood and encouraged us to be in the accessories business," Weber said. "The only criteria they had and we share is that we would not compromise anywhere, that we would hire the best people and find the best resources."
Like many other American fashion houses, Karan has struggled to make a mark in accessories since launching her company 24 years ago. She has had a capsule assortment almost since the beginning, but the category was always treated as such — embellishments to the rtw business without any formal business strategy or infrastructure for growth. In 2004, DKI made a more concerted effort at launching handbags. While the launch seemed stellar, it appeared the financial support necessary to firmly establish and grow such a business were absent, with inadequate staff additions made in merchandising, design and the supply chain. At the time, it seemed the company didn't realize that accessories needed to be treated as a stand-alone business.
"The key to a successful accessories business would be to take a creative breeze from Donna, which could then be independently worked and developed into a collection, separate and apart from the rtw, even if it may coordinate into it," an industry source said. Previously, Karan was also said to be overly involved in their production — which sometimes helped and at times hindered the business, which petered out quickly. "Last time, it was about the 'It' bag," she said. "It was about fashion as opposed to the culture of the company. Because bags were such an integral part of who we were in the beginning, it's almost like we are back to the moment when we started." Plus, she admitted, there were technical problems, issues with factories and a lack of infrastructure to support the launch.
The company is taking a different tack this time. LVMH is said to be offering more backing now than in 2004, and Weber put together a dedicated accessories team, including Michelle Sanders, senior vice president of Donna Karan Collection accessories, whose background includes stints as president of Miu Miu, vice president and fashion director of Juicy Couture and accessories director at Vogue; Ellen Fine, vice president of Collection accessories, who joined from Prada and Miu Miu, where she was vice president of sales for handbags and accessories, and Kathy Formby, vice president of Collection accessories, design, who was previously vice president of design for accessories for Abercrombie & Fitch's Ruehl division.
"We set out to create a collection that is reflective of the Donna Karan philosophy," Sanders said. "It's a respect for the woman, honesty in design. The customer is strong, intelligent, sophisticated, yet feminine. I took direction from that. The shapes are sexy, the leathers are supple and soft, the hardware is sculptural and beautiful. It's not clunky but substantial."
Despite LVMH's resources, DKI sourced production through its own factories, tanneries and hardware factories around Florence. "A lot of the bags were made by the first people I ever worked with when I was at Anne Klein, so it's also a story of reconnecting to the beginning," Karan offered.
The handbags wholesale from $390 to $1,100 for leathers; $350 to $2,550 for evening clutches made of satin, napa, Orylag fur or python, and $970 to $12,320 for exotic skins. The collection will be sold in freestanding Donna Karan Collection stores worldwide, and is being made available to upscale specialty stores and department stores worldwide. Weber declined to give sales projections for both Collection apparel and accessories.
There could even be stand-alone accessories stores one day, according to Weber. "As we look at retail and the opportunities, we are feeling good about expansion in Collection retail," said Weber. "Whether that will lead to freestanding accessories stores, or an expansion of accessories within our existing stores, or the expansion of the size of our stores to account for a larger percentage of accessories is yet to be determined."
As for Karan herself, her personal favorite bag is the Leo one. "This will travel with me. It's for a woman on the go," she said.
Labels: dkny, donna karan handbags
Friday, February 8, 2008
What does your handbag say about you?
I also love looking at what handbag is bes towed upon the arm of the city's bright young things. So here is my brief psycho babble on interpretations of the handbag wearer.
The Leopard Print Fake Fur Bag
This particular genre of lady can be split into two subsets:
1) The young wannabe rock chick who likes to wear plenty of skull attire, line her eyes with the thickest blackest kohl eyeliner and loves th
at pirate look. She welcomes neon plastic accessories and strange hairdos from Toni & G
uy.
2) This is the woman in her late 30s who wants
to feel youthful, carefree and reckless. She loves wearing black dresses meant for 20 somet
hings and leather or PVC. She has bleach blonde or bright auburn hair that is a little dry and frizzy. She loves the legend rock bands: Rollin
g Stones, Guns n Roses and Metallica, Motorc
ycle Head. She still goes clubbing and to gigs.
Big, bright bold and in-your-face, one word sums it all up: Bling.
The Gucci Bag
I think that I am just too laid back in my style a nd prefer things that are a bit quirky and deconstructed round the edges to pull off Gucci the uniform. Unless in the rare occasion I was going for the whole paradox of quirky bared down meets structured and formal.
I am not referring to the Gucci canvas logo bags , I am only referring to proper Gucci leather and collection bags. Logo canvas is a sensitive spot. Enough said.
The Burberry Bag
So classic Brit with a twist of modern chee ky charm brimming underneath is what I think Burberry handbags are about.
The Orla Kiely Bag
Quite a grown up hippy brand, this bag is generally loved by women over 30 who are sophisticated in a more cultural way. An underdog of the style stakes, this woman loves the fact that the quirky sixties chintz looking pattern is retro chic. She longs to relive past decades especially the 60s and 70s. She also loves the great outdoors once in a while.
The Chanel Quilted 2.55 Bag
The Chloe Paddington Bag
This handbag offers function, femininity and casual comfort. Now a cult classic, the Chloe Paddington bag is fast becoming like the Mulberry Roxanne. It is made from soft but durable calfskin leather that is practical but beautiful, it is functional with a pocket or two to tuck away things like your ipod and mobile phone, and it has cute little short straps to wear and show off on your arm. There isn't anything particularly exciting about this bag however. It doesn't sit on the edge of innovation in terms of handbag shapes but that doesn't matter. I think the wearer of this bag is feminine but practical, primarily wants a bag to hold everything in for daytime outings and wants a low maintenance bag that can be worn with almost any outfit to avoid the fuss of having to change handbags regularly.
Thursday, February 7, 2008
Handbag heaven with a capital 'H'
Independent
There is nothing like the Hermes 'H' on an invitation to get the adrenaline flowing, so wild horses wouldn't have stopped me heading straight to the Shelbourne on Wednesday for the launch of the company's stunning new spring/summer collections. Hermes is among the most luxurious labels in the world and, since opening its Wicklow Street doors three years ago at Brown Thomas in Dublin, the brand has won a hugely loyal following in Ireland.
Indeed, the brand boasts handbags up to well over €100,000 a pop, depending on the leather and embellishments used. They are much loved, especially by Chinese and Japanese ladies, while several Irish gals have shelled out up to 10 grand for Kelly bags in a new colour.
Especially for the day, a team of stylists flew in from Paris HQ to create a magical, colourful presentation inspired by the colours and prints of India. Florian Craen, the MD of Hermes, was very excited to be in Dublin, not least because he was flying off the next day to the ski slopes in his native France for a well-deserved break.
He told me that John Paul Gaultier's ready-to-wear collection for the company goes from strength to strength and, this season, the collection is packed with stunning saris and turbans made from the iconic silk-scarf prints that are immediately recognisable all over the globe.
Those who dropped by to meet Fiona and Florian were Stephen Sealy and Moira Murphy from Brown Thomas, and Cathy Reynolds, who enjoyed Christmas with 24 members of her extended family in Ashford Castle. Louise Kennedy was back from what she described as an amazing sap in Brazil. Laura Nadir, proud owner of several Hermes bags, looked terrific, as always. Also spotted were Alexander Fitzgerald and Louise Doheny who, at six months pregnant, looked beautiful.
In addition to the accessories and clothing, also on show were the newest exquisite leather handbags, the Pris-Bombay and the super large Lindy; they were discretely sitting alongside some of their best-known designs, such as the Kelly and the Birkin. Gorgeous!
Labels: authentic hermes handbags, hermes scarves