Monday, March 10, 2008
Paris prefers a little discretion
STELLA McCARTNEY designer handbags red soft patent
two pocket designer purse.
two pocket designer purse.
Andrea Byrne, Independent.ie
Opulence is out and understated sophistication is back on show, says Andrea Byrne
Paris prêt-à-porter season was the final stop on the international catwalk circuit. The city closes proceedings because she is the grande dame of fashion, garnering the most excitement and invariably providing the finest moments.
Though an impressive array of A-listers were there (Julianne Moore at Yves Saint Laurent, Twiggy at Stella McCartney, Dita Von Teese at Louis Vuitton, and a heavily pregnant Jessica Alba at Lanvin), the French capital doesn't rely on their presence for exposure and column inches. It's much more about the clothes. So much so, that while many important American fashion buyers chose to snub London, they turned up to Paris in their droves.
However, like other fashion weeks, PFW was accused (with a few exceptions) of designing clothes and looks that were reflective of the gloomy period that is forecast, by shunning opulence and opting instead for more discreet sophistication. Yes, Paris was uncharacteristically more wearable and, yes, minimalism was the byword, but even so it did give us some awe-inspiring moments. Who provided them? For me it was Alexander McQueen, Alber Elbaz for Lanvin and Yohji Yamamoto. Before his show, McQueen announced that his company had reported considerable profits. Admittedly, much of this success stems from his hugely successful accessories business, which accounts for more than 30 per cent of sales. But judging by his latest collection, further financial gains look to be on the cards. Taking inspiration from history, most notably past queens of England, McQueen didn't do it in the same satirical, garish and rather unsightly way that D&G did in Milan, but, instead, focused on regal elegance.
The jacket was the main focus and big talking point of Yohji's collection -- presenting itself in every conceivable shape and fabric, although most notable and nicely in leather. It had a distinct equestrian feel to it. But what I loved most was the extent to which it was different, original and memorable. Similarly, fellow Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo, the brains behind Comme des Garcons, provided something startlingly interesting and different.
There was a lot of austerity in the Parisian colour palette, where dark tones (black, charcoal and midnight blue) reigned supreme. However, it was interspersed with flashes of pillar red, soft peach and canary yellow.
Second to Chanel, Lanvin is my favourite label. It's practical, wearable, luxurious and beautiful. Though largely black, the collection was anything but trite and predictable. Ribbons were everywhere, heavy embellishment was key and dangerously sexy one-shoulder dresses went down a storm. The shy and limelight-shunning Elbaz rightfully earned a standing ovation from the crowd. Lanvin championed the return of the LBD for next season -- as did Givenchy and Balenciaga -- though the latter did it in a way that was a little too futuristic and wayward for my liking.
Much like the celebrities at the Oscars, there was a lot of red in Galliano's collection, with undertones of both Sixties and Seventies styles, particularly in the prints. All-in-all, it was a very polished and wearable collection.
Ireland's own Sharon Wauchob presented a collection that possessed an edgy feel while maintaining her usual floaty, ethereal femininity. She embraced what looks to be one of the biggest trends for next Autumn/Winter -- ruffles.
All eyes were on Valentino's successor, Alessandra Facchinetti, to see if she could continue the success of the brand. She didn't disappoint. Bravely and rather commendably, she didn't try to emulate what Valentino did best but instead did her own thing.
After a disastrous showing of his eponymous label at New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs redeemed himself with his collection for Louis Vuitton. The coat was the key piece -- in soft, muted creams and beiges. It was grown up and timeless. So, with the six-week fashion show cycle now over, what will we all be wearing next season? The focus is still very much on the waistline; therefore, a belt, particularly of the skinny kind, is a must. Ruffles were everywhere -- from tops to dresses to shoes. Lace and tulle were also ubiquitous. Trousers will have a more masculine feel in their tailoring, the waistline will go higher, the length longer and the leg wider. The skirt is voluminous, the sleeve is billowing. The coat is cocooned in shape. The dress will vary in hemline (maxi to knee-length) and in style (one-shoulder dresses to tiered).
Bags, which have been the ultimate accessory for countless seasons, will take a back seat for Autumn/ Winter, replaced instead by footwear (chunky platforms) and costume jewellery. Think cuffs (Lanvin), layered necklaces (Givenchy), tiered pearls (Chanel), brooches (Lacroix) and chandelier earrings (Dior).
Anti-fur campaigners have tried everything to turn people against fur, by sexing up their image and getting various celebs on board to denounce the wearing of pelts, but despite their best efforts, they just can't quash its allure. In fact, this winter, fur promises to be bigger than it has been in several years -- with John Paul Gaultier championing its cause more than anyone else. He went so far as to send models out with full-faced foxes on their heads -- which is about the only trend I won't be embracing next season.
Opulence is out and understated sophistication is back on show, says Andrea Byrne
Paris prêt-à-porter season was the final stop on the international catwalk circuit. The city closes proceedings because she is the grande dame of fashion, garnering the most excitement and invariably providing the finest moments.
Though an impressive array of A-listers were there (Julianne Moore at Yves Saint Laurent, Twiggy at Stella McCartney, Dita Von Teese at Louis Vuitton, and a heavily pregnant Jessica Alba at Lanvin), the French capital doesn't rely on their presence for exposure and column inches. It's much more about the clothes. So much so, that while many important American fashion buyers chose to snub London, they turned up to Paris in their droves.
However, like other fashion weeks, PFW was accused (with a few exceptions) of designing clothes and looks that were reflective of the gloomy period that is forecast, by shunning opulence and opting instead for more discreet sophistication. Yes, Paris was uncharacteristically more wearable and, yes, minimalism was the byword, but even so it did give us some awe-inspiring moments. Who provided them? For me it was Alexander McQueen, Alber Elbaz for Lanvin and Yohji Yamamoto. Before his show, McQueen announced that his company had reported considerable profits. Admittedly, much of this success stems from his hugely successful accessories business, which accounts for more than 30 per cent of sales. But judging by his latest collection, further financial gains look to be on the cards. Taking inspiration from history, most notably past queens of England, McQueen didn't do it in the same satirical, garish and rather unsightly way that D&G did in Milan, but, instead, focused on regal elegance.
The jacket was the main focus and big talking point of Yohji's collection -- presenting itself in every conceivable shape and fabric, although most notable and nicely in leather. It had a distinct equestrian feel to it. But what I loved most was the extent to which it was different, original and memorable. Similarly, fellow Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo, the brains behind Comme des Garcons, provided something startlingly interesting and different.
There was a lot of austerity in the Parisian colour palette, where dark tones (black, charcoal and midnight blue) reigned supreme. However, it was interspersed with flashes of pillar red, soft peach and canary yellow.
Second to Chanel, Lanvin is my favourite label. It's practical, wearable, luxurious and beautiful. Though largely black, the collection was anything but trite and predictable. Ribbons were everywhere, heavy embellishment was key and dangerously sexy one-shoulder dresses went down a storm. The shy and limelight-shunning Elbaz rightfully earned a standing ovation from the crowd. Lanvin championed the return of the LBD for next season -- as did Givenchy and Balenciaga -- though the latter did it in a way that was a little too futuristic and wayward for my liking.
Much like the celebrities at the Oscars, there was a lot of red in Galliano's collection, with undertones of both Sixties and Seventies styles, particularly in the prints. All-in-all, it was a very polished and wearable collection.
Ireland's own Sharon Wauchob presented a collection that possessed an edgy feel while maintaining her usual floaty, ethereal femininity. She embraced what looks to be one of the biggest trends for next Autumn/Winter -- ruffles.
All eyes were on Valentino's successor, Alessandra Facchinetti, to see if she could continue the success of the brand. She didn't disappoint. Bravely and rather commendably, she didn't try to emulate what Valentino did best but instead did her own thing.
After a disastrous showing of his eponymous label at New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs redeemed himself with his collection for Louis Vuitton. The coat was the key piece -- in soft, muted creams and beiges. It was grown up and timeless. So, with the six-week fashion show cycle now over, what will we all be wearing next season? The focus is still very much on the waistline; therefore, a belt, particularly of the skinny kind, is a must. Ruffles were everywhere -- from tops to dresses to shoes. Lace and tulle were also ubiquitous. Trousers will have a more masculine feel in their tailoring, the waistline will go higher, the length longer and the leg wider. The skirt is voluminous, the sleeve is billowing. The coat is cocooned in shape. The dress will vary in hemline (maxi to knee-length) and in style (one-shoulder dresses to tiered).
Bags, which have been the ultimate accessory for countless seasons, will take a back seat for Autumn/ Winter, replaced instead by footwear (chunky platforms) and costume jewellery. Think cuffs (Lanvin), layered necklaces (Givenchy), tiered pearls (Chanel), brooches (Lacroix) and chandelier earrings (Dior).
Anti-fur campaigners have tried everything to turn people against fur, by sexing up their image and getting various celebs on board to denounce the wearing of pelts, but despite their best efforts, they just can't quash its allure. In fact, this winter, fur promises to be bigger than it has been in several years -- with John Paul Gaultier championing its cause more than anyone else. He went so far as to send models out with full-faced foxes on their heads -- which is about the only trend I won't be embracing next season.
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